FROM the slightly eccentric gentleman in tweed who welcomes you at the door, to the crystal decanters on the sideboards, visiting The Mulroy is like visiting a wealthy uncle’s home. Split between two rooms, there is an intimacy that is lost in many larger restaurants, and the moment I saw the tweed dining room chairs, I never wanted to leave.
If I had a wealthy uncle who could cook as well as the chef at The Mulroy, I would probably have drawn up the adoption papers immediately. Having trained in a two Michelin star restaurant in Cannes, Damien Rolain effortlessly combines fresh local ingredients with his French know-how.
Having admired the silver cutlery and candle sticks until I ran out of adjectives, the starters arrived. I had the Port Seton langoustine and tomato ragout squid ink ravioli (£12). It was a beautiful rainbow of colours on the plate, with the indigo pasta floating in the pink bisque. The ravioli was a little tough at the edges, but the filling was divine. The Spaniard opted for the Scottish hare and foie gras terrine en croute. At a surprisingly affordable £11.50 it was meaty, indulgent and perfectly complemented by the kumquat chutney.
My main was a feast of local pork composed of confit belly, braised cheek and a delicate bundle of rich trotter and thyme (£18.25). The Spaniard opted for the Inveraray venison, which was served a deep pink and with a peculiar little bite size pie and an unusual combination of green apple and parsnip puree which resulted in a deliciously unique dish.
On the recommendation of the maitre d’ we settled on the chef’s signature tarte tatin and the dark chocolate crème brûlée for dessert. With a more affordable pre-theatre and lunch menu offering two courses for £11.50, I might be able to make myself at home more often. The Mulroy, 11a-13a William Street EH3 7NG, 0131 225 6061