Restaurant review: Amore Dogs, Edinburgh

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AMORE Dogs has re-invented itself and its Hanover Street venue is now channelling vibes of New York’s Little Italy rather than Rome. With a quick change of the logo and a re-jig of the menu, David Ramsden continues his mission to reinvent the Edinburgh dining scene.

While its sister restaurant The Dogs is covered in quirky doggie memorabilia, Amore Dogs has always been more restrained and stripped back. Certain corners may teeter on the verge of an Ikea catalogue combining pine floors and splashes of red, but the enormous print of Botticelli’s Venus with a colossal superimposed dog and the mismatched antique sofas at the door bring it back to The Dogs trendy signature style.

Taking on the Italian-American theme with zeal, we ordered garlic mushroom bruschetta (£3.95) and chicken wings in a hot sauce (£4.95) to share. The bruschetta was nostalgically reminiscent of Campbell’s mushroom soup, while the chicken certainly packed a punch. I tucked into the Tabasco-soaked wings like there was no tomorrow while my weaker tongued dinner guest guzzled water and wiped her eyes.

My 6oz skirt steak marinated in garlic and rosemary was up next. At just £6.95 I wasn’t quite sure what to expect, but unfortunately you get what you pay for and conversation was stilted as I chewed my way through. After fighting over who got to order the Slider Selection (£7.95) I was a little relieved I had lost the battle. My fusspot dinner guest had asked for them without mayo, unaware that this would result in the mini beef, pork & fish burgers being served on completely bare buns without even a salad leaf in sight. A simple apple or tartare sauce might have saved the dish.

Fortunately the meal was salvaged by The Banoffee Sundae and PB&J cheesecake. The latter tasted just like a peanut butter and jelly sandwich bundled up in buttery joy, while the sundae was packed full of deliciousness. The new menu might need a few more adjustments, but I have no doubt that avid Dogs fans will continue to enjoy.

n Amore Dogs 104 Hanover Street, Edinburgh, 0131 220 5155, www.amoredogs.co.uk

Lindsey Robertson