Mark Greenaway: French mother sauce

Smoked salmon cannelloni. Pic: comp
Smoked salmon cannelloni. Pic: comp
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Top chef Mark Greenaway has a tip for making and using a variation of mayonnaise

Sauce gribiche

Sauce gribiche is one of the many variations of the French mother sauce mayonnaise, the main difference being it uses hard-cooked eggs, instead of raw, as its foundation. The crumbly, pasty egg yolks act as a thickener to bind together the oil and vinegar. The sauce can be used for so many different dishes, it’s great poured over a chicken breast or even as part of a potato salad. After a quick search online you will notice there are many different recipes for making sauce gribiche, although all use more or less the same ingredients. You will notice though I have somewhat modernised the ingredients into a garnish for this dish, rather than the traditional sauce.

I’ve chosen to add the gribiche to the cannelloni as the sharpness and acidity of the capers cuts right through the rich fattiness of the salmon. These dishes can be prepared and eaten separately, but together they enhance each other.

The beautiful filling of smoked salmon is a great substitute for the typical ragu you would normally find inside cannelloni. I’ve used thinly sliced smoked salmon as a pasta substitute to wrap around the filling, so it’s not really a cannelloni, more my interpretation of it!

Once seen as a luxury ingredient, you will now find smoked salmon on the chilling counter of any supermarket. Although remember labels can be misleading at times.

Nearly 50 per cent of Scottish Smoked Salmon is actually farmed in Norway. Suppliers find shipping it from Norway can be more cost effective, and as long as the fish is then smoked in Scotland it can be labelled Scottish. For fresh fish, which hasn’t taken a three-day journey before it’s even been smoked, I recommend visiting your local fishmonger.

Once you have selected your salmon, get working on my recipe!

METHOD

Sauce Gribiche Ingredients

4 hard-boiled eggs, yolks discarded and whites diced

100mls olive oil

1⁄2 bunch of fresh chervil, chopped

1⁄2 bunch of fresh tarragon, chopped

1⁄2 bunch of fresh flat parsley, finely shredded

100g baby capers, drained

100g cornichons (baby gherkins), drained and diced

Method

Mix all the ingredients in a bowl and gently fold together. Season with a little salt but be careful as the capers can already be a little salty.

Smoked Salmon Cannelloni

Ingredients

6 strips of very thinly sliced smoked salmon

200g smoked salmon trimmings

100g crème fraiche

50mls double cream

2 teaspoons chopped chives

Method

Blend your smoked salmon trimmings together with the crème fraiche and cream until it forms a smooth mousse like texture. Place in. A small bowl suitable to fit in your fridge and fold through the chives and a little pinch of salt. Refrigerate for approx-imately 1 hour. Place the smoked salmon mousse mixture into a piping bag with a plain nozzle. Lay out your remaining smoked salmon on cling film to form a large strip. Pipe your smoked salmon mousse along the length of the smoked salmon and roll up tightly together to form a cylinder. Twist the ends tight and refrigerate for another hour. Using a cookie cutter press the gribiche around the inside to form a circle, then place the smoked salmon “cannelloni” in the middle of the plate.

Please note in the restaurant we garnish with a little caviar and saffron mayonnaise, this is of course optional.