Restaurant: It’s hip to be Square at Sheraton

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SINCE opening, reviews of One Square at the Sheraton have been mixed, but the unassuming yet sophisticated menu is undoubtedly a winner.

The red-carpeted stairs leading up from Festival Square are impressive but the atmosphere is relaxed and humble and the menu ranges from all day breakfast to an awesome sounding fresh Scottish seafood platter.

Choosing an Argentinean Chardonnay-Torrontes (£20), a basket of home-made breads was placed on the table whilst we looked at the menu.

Immediately drawn to the roasted beetroot with connage Highland crowdie and toasted pine nut salad (£8) my partner made her choice relatively easily. Beautifully served with the cheese sandwiched between thin slices of beetroot, it is light and moreish.

I had the pan-fried Tarbert crab cake, tender spinach and walnut salad with creamy mustard sauce (£13). It was a crab cake in the best sense of the meaning – no potato mixture held it all together; it was just succulent crab.

For her main, my partner decided on the beef cheek, slow cooked in Leith Claret and pickled walnuts (£16). Slicing through the meat with the side of a fork, it was very tender. The flavour of the local wine added a subtle depth to the dish. I couldn’t resist the Flat Iron steak with pan haggerty, mushrooms and tomato (£14), Pre-cooked in a vacuum pack bag, it was one of the most interesting steaks I have had in a while. With a slightly smoky taste, it was juicy and tender.

We both had room for dessert, and having seen the After-Eight Mint Sphere, dairy ice-cream drizzled in warm chocolate sauce (£7.50) which makes the outer chocolate layer seemingly explode, that was a definite choice. Slightly more fun to look at and watch melt beneath the sauce than to eat, it was an unsurprising pudding. The apple upside-down cake with Thistly Cross cream (£7) was a great surprise.

• One Square, Sheraton Hotel, Festival Square, 0131-221 6422, Email One Square