Restaurant review: Bodega, Elm Row

Baja-style fish tacos. Picture: Contributed
Baja-style fish tacos. Picture: Contributed
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BLINK and you might miss it, which would be a shame as Mexican taqueria Bodega is a little gem tucked away on Elm Row. With its Spanish name simply referring to a shop selling wine and food, Bodega keeps it simple, serving up a selection of starters and tacos (using gluten-free corn tortillas) which offer street-style Mexican food with inventive fillings.

It is also BYOB (with a corkage charge of £2 per person) so no wasting time poring over a drinks menu.

The waiter (who is one of two co-owners) talks us through the menu, explaining that the idea is to order two tacos each for £6, or four for £12 (he recommends four tacos per person), which can then be shared, depending on how accommodating your dining companions are.

Luckily mine are of a generous nature and we all dive into house guacamole with corn chips (£4.50) from the standard menu and choose two options from that day’s specials, salmon ceviche with chilli, lime and avocado (£6), served with a separate lime and chilli hot sauce (we are warned that this is a hot one) and quesadilla with chorizo and caramelised peppers (£4.50) to start.

The texture of the guacamole is smooth and creamy, but it has a surprising kick to it, not mule-like by any stretch (that’s what the hot chilli sauce delivers) but heftier than you might expect.

The salmon ceviche has a hint of zingy tartness and delivers a light, fresh taste. It doesn’t need any additional spice or sauce. It also works well alongside the quesadilla with its rich, smoky chorizo teamed with peppers for a delicious sweet contrast.

When it comes to the mains, you do have to be a fan of tacos, but we feel the variety of the fillings keeps things interesting.

n Bodega, 62 Elm Row, 0131-556 7930

Lynn O’Rourke