Why foodies should run not walk to Chicago for the culinary moment inspired by Disney+ TV show The Bear

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From beef sandwiches to two Michelin-starred breweries, foodies should run not walk to Chicago for it’s culinary coming-of-age inspired by Disney+ TV show The Bear, says Nicola Adam.

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I’m sitting at a wooden bench next to two strangers in Chicago in a deli called Mr Beef in Chicago’s River North neighbourhood. One is called Jean and she is from Ohio and the other is Pete and he’s from California. He’s a foodie, he tells me, and he loves my accent.

We have just one thing in common and it’s being placed in front of us. A simple but chunky sandwich, glistening with dozens of layers of thinly sliced beef to which Pete rapidly applies pickles from the shared bowl in front of us.

Nic’s Top Tips for Chicago:

“Chicago is a living breathing tribute to the resilience of the American dream”

Nicola Adam

I stare at mine, somewhat over-faced, and already regretting going all in on the pancakes for my American breakfast. It’s only mid-morning and this is the first stop on The Bear location food tour, inspired by the Disney+ TV show of the same name, a cultural phenomenon and huge hit across the world which is amplifying the city’s foodie credentials.

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Glancing at Pete, I realise he’s inhaled his sandwich and is already clearing his plate to head to the next location. Gingerly, I bite. It’s meaty and mouth watering without being fatty - I can understand the fuss, even if I hadn’t seen the actual show. I suspect this may be a crime in Chicago.

Mr Beef, location from The BearMr Beef, location from The Bear
Mr Beef, location from The Bear | Nicola Adam

But no time to waste as we needed to head back on the bus to Time Out Market at Fulton Market District and our next taste explosion - Urban Dumplings - also a hit. Next, pepperoni slice at Pizza Lobo (it IS Chicago), then beer, a strawberry doughnut at Roeser’s Bakery, then hot fudge sundae at Margie’s Candies where our British status sees us sitting in the same leather booth where the Beatles once dined. There is photographic evidence. Not forgetting our Old Fashioned at the famous wooden-framed Green Door Speakeasy. All before dinner - no, really.

Frankly it’s a good job we didn’t do the tour the day before, I’d have sunk the boat for our Chicago Architecture Foundation Center River Cruise aboard Chicago’s First Lady where we learned a lot of history - including the rapid reduction in size and staffing at the iconic Chicago Tribune where online and home working has overtaken newspapers like everywhere else. Some things we all share.

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We cruised past offices which seem to stand on stilts and past the ego-ridden, glittering, protuberance that is the Trump tower. But Chicago is so much more than glass, business acumen, and wide streets with the ubiquitous CVS on every corner. It’s a living breathing tribute to the resilience of the American dream. And here they dream big and loud despite the challenges, which I later learn at first hand can come in the form of actual tornadoes. But this is the Windy City, after all

We’d arrived in the city following our British Airways flight to Chicago O’Hare airport from the airport via taxi. A shining black stretch limousine which could not be more American if it tried. It was my first impression of the city I haven’t visited for decades. Back then I was a skint backpacker travelling on the bus - the contrast felt dizzying as I gazed up from my luxury vehicle to the glass facades of buildings stretching to the blue skies and fluffy clouds and adding to the surreal movie-set welcome.

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On arrival were ejected from our limo outside our hotel on Michigan Avenue, amid the stares that turn to disappointment when passers-by realised we were not famous. We were just metres from the large sign pronouncing the very start of the famous Route 66 driving route to Los Angeles. Opposite was the lakeside Millennium Park featuring the striking giant silver bean-like Cloud Gate which is a recently refurbished city landmark (by Indian-born British artists Anish Kapoor) but immediately made me crave a coffee.

The start of the classic Route 66 on Michigan AvenueThe start of the classic Route 66 on Michigan Avenue
The start of the classic Route 66 on Michigan Avenue | Nicola Adam

The Athletic Association hotel, our home from home for the duration, was once upon a time exactly what is sounds like - an historic members club for sport including a now covered-over indoor pool and a basketball court. It’s been converted with immense sensitivity and joy, (though it’s a shame the pool isn’t there). My room on floor 12, a junior suite, is designed in tribute to its history complete with pommel horse furniture and old climbing apparatus as a room divider; it’s quirky, beautiful and atmospheric with windows on two sides facing into a so very American metal fire escape and across the road into people’s offices and apartments.

Cherry Circle Room at The Athletic Association hotelCherry Circle Room at The Athletic Association hotel
Cherry Circle Room at The Athletic Association hotel | Nicola Adam

If I peered sideways I could see the gleaming bean again and the edges of Lake Michigan itself, rammed with people in the day and quiet when jet lag hits and I stare out of the window in the early hours. Later we get into the wood panelled, creaking and original, elevator and travel up to the top and into the friendly buzz of Cindy’s rooftop restaurant with a balcony offering glorious unfettered sunset views across to the lake and, in the distance, buildings made famous on film. It’s our first experience of Chicago’s dedication to the food and drink experience - they take it seriously here and chefs now flock to the city.

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Chicago, I learn, is not one place, rather a series of in many cases seriously hip and creative districts, each with distinct and evolving personalities , of green tree lined streets and homes staffed with humanity living their lives in city built on Lake Michigan, with a fascinating history. From the prohibition era inspiring the illegal speakeasy drinking spots, to the rebuild after the Great Chicago fire and the city’s proud legacy of House Music, the city is old and proud. We visit an exhibition at Navy Pier marking 40 years since its origins as the Home of House. But it is the culinary revolution that is striking. My sandwich at Mr Beef could not have contrasted more with our trip to the Moody Tongue restaurant where, instead of cheek to cheek with strangers, we dine in our our private room . We are dropped by taxi outside what looks like a factory in an abandoned neighbourhood (it’s in South Loop) , the exterior so trendily bland we can’t even find the door. Inside the darkened restaurant the theme continues and our food choices are paired with, not wine, but their own beer. I urge you to try this, it’s genuinely one of the best meals I have every had. In 2023, Moody Tongue became the first wholesale brewery/restaurant in the world to receive an accolade from the MICHELIN Guide, earning Two Stars - I can see and taste why.

2 x Michelin-starred Moody Tongue restaurant/brewery2 x Michelin-starred Moody Tongue restaurant/brewery
2 x Michelin-starred Moody Tongue restaurant/brewery | Nicola Adam

From Michelin stars to barbeque heaven - we donned our cowboy boots ( not really - flip flops) to taste the mobile offerings from across the US at the Windy City Smokeout, a food and music festival straight from the heart of the south where top tier country acts perform for cowboy-hat clad crowds. We arrive early, (after security checked our bag for guns - a novelty for Brits) to taste the ribs and chicken tenders and sauce in the heat of the mid-day sun, drinking cocktails out of plastic cowboy hat bottles. Then we sway tentatively as fellow festival goers demo their line dancing prowess and sip on beer. On a packed schedule and full as eggs, we leave early and miss the mega-famous Carrie Underwood perform.

Later we enjoy a taste of a more authentic Chicago when we arrive at Rosa’s Lounge - a classic atmospheric blues bar - for drinks and live jazz. Celebrating it’s 40th anniversary, Rosa’s is family owned and operated by an Italian immigrant Tony Mangiullo who came to Chicago in 1978. Tony found the true spirit of the blues at South side lounges and he opened Rosa's in 1984 as a tribute to those cradles of blues tradition, and named it after his mother, Rosa, who had followed him here to help.

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The Rosa's Lounge Blues BarThe Rosa's Lounge Blues Bar
The Rosa's Lounge Blues Bar | Nicola Adam

There’s no doubt there’s something for everyone in Chicago and it’s different to other US cities better explored by Brits. It was my first time listening to blaring warnings warning us to hide from incoming tornadoes for example - we really should stop complaining about Britain’s changeable weather. We’d been boiling earlier in 30 plus degree heat before the storms set in. But what you can be assured of is the warmest of welcomes and the meals of dreams. Foodies, don’t walk to Chicago, run! Though I’d recommend a stretch limo.

Where Nicola went, stayed and ate:

  • Explore Chicago with CityPASS which includes prepaid admission to Shedd Aquarium, Skydeck Chicago plus your choice of any three of the following attractions - Field Museum, Art Institute of Chicago, Museum of Science and Industry, Chicago, 360 CHICAGO Observation Deck, Adler Planetarium, Shoreline Sightseeing Architecture River Tour

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