Edinburgh restaurateurs pay tribute to culinary legend Albert Roux

Leading Edinburgh restaurateurs have paid tribute to culinary legend Albert Roux after the renowned chef died aged 85.

Mr Roux and his brother Michel, who died last year, were seen as a major influence on modern culinary tastes after they founded Le Gavroche restaurant in London in 1967.

Michelin-starred Capital restaurateurs Martin Wishart, who trained under Mr Roux, and Tom Kitchin both voiced their sadness at his passing and spoke of his huge reputation.

Mr Kitchin tweeted: “One of the true culinary greats has left us... Merci chef.. My thoughts are with the Roux family and the army of chefs you’ve influenced over the years.. You will be missed but never forgotten.. RIP #AlbertRoux”.

And Mr Wishart said he had been a great mentor and good friend, who came to perform an official opening of his first restaurant in Leith.

"I knew Albert very well and we kept a good friendship – I just received a Christmas card from him, as I always do,” said Mr Wishart.

"I started working at Le Gavroche when Albert was just handing the reins to his son Michel junior, who was taking over control of the kitchen as the executive chef and Albert was stepping back. I guess I was one of the last few chefs to work for Albert while he was at Le Gavroche. That would have been 1991/92.

Albert Roux and ex-student Martin Wishart at Mr Wishart's restaurant in Leith in 1999 Picture: Poppy Berry

“The training I got, not just from Albert but from Michel and the general environment there, was exceptional. At the time it was probably the best kitchen in the UK. There were so many good chefs who have worked under the Rouxs, particularly Albert. The exceptional ingredients and technique and the discipline the kitchen as well gave a great foundation for young chefs.”

Mr Wishart worked with him again at Cafe Roux at the Grand Hotel in Amsterdam in 1997. “That was the last job I had overseas before I came back to Edinburgh to run my own restaurant. And Albert came to do a launch of the restaurant about five weeks after I’d opened.

"It was really special to get that sort of prestige in Edinburgh for a small restaurant down at the Shore in Leith. There was nothing glamorous about the restaurant itself – it was a very basic place, but to have someone of that standing turn up was exceptional. It showed he wanted to help anyone who worked for him, it didn’t matter where they were working he was always there to offer support.”

And after that opening in 1999, the pair kept in touch over the years. “I had lunch with Albert and my wife and children at Andy Murray’s hotel a couple of years ago – he invited us up for lunch, just for a catch-up which was really nice. And every now and then I would bump into him at an event or if I was in London I would drop in to Le Gavroche and sometimes he’d be there having his lunch.

"You can’t underestimate how much of an influence Albert has been, particularly Albert and Michel as brothers together

He loved Scotland, he always supported Scottish ingredients, Scottish suppliers and liked to fish and go walking up here. He’d often tell me he loved visiting Scotland – the scenery, the people, the produce.”

And a tribute also came from Sir Rocco Forte, chairman of Rocco Forte Hotels, which includes Edinburgh’s Balmoral Hotel, where Michel and Alain Roux launched Brasserie Prince in 2018.

Sir Rocco said: “This is very sad news and particularly after the death last year of his younger brother Michel. The two were instrumental in raising the quality of cooking in the UK training a large number of English chefs, many of who have become stars in their own right. They brought glamour to an industry which 50 years ago had a poor profile and so encouraged a huge number of young people to join it and make successful careers. Both their sons, Michel (Albert’s) and Alain (Michel’s), continue to work in the tradition established by their fathers and have made a mark in their own right.”

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