Remarkable rural hideaway that’s right on our doorstep - Julie Douglas
If, like me, you’ve travelled far and wide in search of the ultimate countryside retreat, it could be time to look closer to home.
Scotland’s newest destination for rural getaways, wedding weekends and other milestone celebrations can be found right on Edinburgh’s doorstep at Penicuik Estate in Midlothian.
At its heart is Penicuik House, a luxurious boutique residence which once served as the stable block to the original Penicuik House – the restored ruins of which now stand as the imposing focal point of the site.
Set against the backdrop of the Pentland Hills, in 3000-plus hectares of rolling farmland, ancient woodland and mature landscaped gardens, it blends beauty with history and accessible isolation.
It’s also the first place I have stayed where the option to “bring your own horse” features alongside bathrobes, honesty bar and free wi-fi in the long list of room amenities.
The new hospitality venture is part of a long-term restoration plan for the estate, which has been owned and managed by the Clerk family since 1654.
Heritage conservation, nature restoration and regenerative farming projects are among other key pillars of plan, being driven by Ed Clerk, who grew up on the estate.
A direct descendant of the third Baronet, Sir James Clerk, who began building Old Penicuik House in 1761, Ed is keen to ensure that all new development remains true to the site’s heritage and the vision of his forebears.
Having seen local people drawn to the estate during the pandemic – as a place to enjoy the outdoors and connect with nature – he also wants to maintain the community connection by expanding public access to its miles of walking and biking trails.
In the absence of a horse, I set off on the short drive, looking forward to a weekend of indulgent relaxation that promised everything from autumnal hillwalking and outdoor pilates to firepit barbecues, cosy fireside cocktails and candlelit fine dining.
Just a six miles south of Midlothian Snowsports Centre, a left turn from the A702 towards Silverburn took me to the estate’s main gate.
Arriving along a meandering tree-lined driveway, visitors are confronted by the grandiose facade of the Old Penicuik House, famed for its outstanding Palladian architecture and stunning designed landscape.
The big house has been an uninhabited shell since 1899 when its roof and interior where destroyed by fire, forcing the Clerk family to take up residence in the neighbouring stable block.
Now the flagship property of the estate’s newly launched hospitality offering, the stables have been transformed into a 16-bedroom exclusive hire venue, complete with its own wood-panelled bar, cinema room, drawing rooms and a formal 48-seater dining room.
The Clerk family’s centuries-deep collection of artworks and heirlooms, salvaged during the blaze, now sit alongside relaxed contemporary furnishings, creating eclectic and quirky interiors.
With eleven suites and five double bedrooms, all en suite, the venue can comfortably sleep 32 guests. It also has a large and fully equipped modern kitchen for those opting to self-cater.
It was the perfect location for our two-night girls’ getaway, accommodating our large group under the one roof, with no other guests to worry about and helpful hosts on hand to make sure we had everything we needed.
There was an approving chorus of oohs and aahs as we slipped along the corridors, taking turns to show off our rooms, each one individually styled by London-based interior designer Charles Orchard.
My room – Sylvanus – opened onto the main central courtyard, designed in the style of an Italian piazza, notable for its clocktower and extravagant doocot at opposite sides of the quadrangle.
With a superking hypnos bed, large TV and separate luggage/dressing area, it was spacious enough to feel airy and yet compact enough to be cosy, with all the home comforts you’d expect.
Statement wallpaper featuring whimsical woodland creatures and a soothing green colour scheme gave the room a dreamy quality. The light-filled bathroom was equally elegant with a large walk-in shower and double vanity unit.
In keeping with the rest of the property, tartan touches were minimal and the Scottish theme understated, allowing the setting to speak for itself. The view of Highland cattle grazing in open fields just beyond my window said it all.
Private chefs’ dining, available as an optional extra from the Edinburgh Catering Company, allowed us to make the most of fresh Scottish produce such as venison, scallops, smoked salmon and foraged mushrooms.
A highlight was our first night sharing supper, cooked over a hot coal grill in the courtyard before being served up in the dining room.
Whole sides of cedar plank salmon, shelled langoustine and a fillet of Picanha beef were accompanied by hasselback potatoes and barbecued cauliflower, with a show-stopping passion fruit pavlova to finish.
The following day, a full Scottish breakfast set us up for a guided walk in the Pentlands, where we were rewarded with panoramic views taking in Edinburgh and the Firth of Forth.
Back at base there was time to explore the immediate grounds, including the High Pond, a natural body of water available to guests for wild swimming. It also has an expansive lawn that doubles as a magical events space.
With future visits in mind, I was delighted to discover that five of the estate’s original cottages have also been lovingly refurbished to provide high-end self-catering accommodation that can be hired as an extension to the main house or booked individually for a more intimate experience.
Safe to say I have found my happy place. A peaceful and beautiful hideaway, just a short hop from home and yet a million miles from the urban grind.
With new cottages, treehouses and cabins planned, along with a glass orangery for large celebrations, it seems I’ll have to share.
Rates for Penicuik House start from £9750 per night including breakfast, while rates for the self catering cottages start at £350 per night. A minimum stay of two night applies.