Froth and Flame, Edinburgh promises devilishly good pizza and beer, but do they deliver? - Liam Rudden
MORRISON Street is not a part of town I visit that often.
Memories of the thoroughfare are few and far between; a school trip to the Co-op stables to see their collection of horse-drawn carriages; a trip to the ABC to watch an early screening of Star Trek II: The Wrath of Kahn; and the obligatory stop at the all-night bakery when crashing at a mate’s flat on West Maitland Street after a night on the town - always more appealing than the traipse home to Leith.
Just some of the thoughts that flitted through my mind as I headed to the evocatively named Froth and Flame to try their menu and experience one of the latest additions to the Morrison Street pub scene.
Sitting at the back of the spacious bar/restaurant, all muted pastels and clean lines, the view of an office block from the back window was vaguely familiar... another memory stirred.
I was gazing at the back of what was once the office of the Careers Service on Torphichen Street.
My one and only visit there at 15 resulted in a bearded hippy masquerading as a Career’s Officer spouting the stock advice he probably gave every working class lad to come through his door, ‘Have you thought about joining the Army or maybe going into the Navy...’
Like that was ever going to happen.
Anyway, those thoughts faded as my drink arrived, a pint of cold Crisp Keith Lager, at just £3 a bargain - the bar is owned by Keith Brewery.
With it came, the menu boasting‘devilishly good beer and pizza’. The wood-fired stone pizza oven on the floor below certainly promised great things.
Opting for the Napoli pizza (£9.50), the fennel sausage, nduja sausage, goat’s cheese and mozzarella on a light, thin base proved a delicious choice.
Sharing between two, we also ordered the Froth and Flame Salad (£12), a perfect balance of mixed salad leaves, roast chicken, potatoes, diced crispy bacon and cherry tomatoes topped with a poached egg (hold the egg) and a home-made honey and mustard dressing that gave the whole thing a tingly kick.
There was also a side of garlic pizza bread with mozzarella, and dripping with olive oil (£3.50).
All proved ideal compliments for the lager - I was also tempted by the Beefeater Gin and Tonic, also £3.
Froth and Flame is well named. Despite having both upstairs and downstairs dining areas, it’s surprisingly intimate.
Service is relaxed and deceptively attentive and on this occasion the bar seemed a particular favourite of couples (of all ages) out for a chilled, romantic meal.
I could understand why. Walk through the doors of Froth and Flame and you automatically leave the cares of the day behind.
It’s just that sort of place and one I’ll happily add to my list of favourite city centre hostelries.