I climbed two famous natural landmarks in Edinburgh and the Lothians and the experience never gets old

There’s no shortage of great walks in Edinburgh and the Lothians – and with recent weather taking a turn for the better I decided to visit two popular beauty spots that offer panoramic views at every turn.

Arthur’s Seat and North Berwick Law are two of the most distinctive natural landmarks in the area, with the prominent volcanic hills standing proudly over their respective landscapes. Both are more than 340 million years old, steeped in history, and see locals and tourists flock to the distinctive landmarks to take in their stunning views.

I set off for Berwick Law last week for the first time since I was a child, with only a hazy memory of what the views were like. A local told me it only takes 20 minutes to climb, which is pretty close to the mark, but of course that depends on which route you want to take and if you want to rest at one of the several seating areas or see some historical landmarks during your ascent.

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Arthur’s Seat and North Berwick Law are two of the most distinctive natural landmarks in Edinburgh and East LothianArthur’s Seat and North Berwick Law are two of the most distinctive natural landmarks in Edinburgh and East Lothian
Arthur’s Seat and North Berwick Law are two of the most distinctive natural landmarks in Edinburgh and East Lothian | NW

Although ‘The Law’ appears to look like an extinct volcano, unlike Arthur’s Seat it is in fact a volcanic plug (hardened magma from an ancient volcano). It’s around a half hour walk from North Berwick train station (39 minutes according to Google) and very close to the heart of the seaside town.

Along the winding trail you’ll find 2000-year-old remains of houses and ramparts, a 19th century telegraph station used to monitor sea lanes during the Napoleonic War, a World War I and II observation post and Berwick Law’s distinctive whale bone arch at the summit. The original monument is believed to have been erected in 1709, but now a fibreglass replica stands in its place.

There were around 20 people at the summit enjoying incredible coastal views of North Berwick, surrounding East Lothian and (fellow volcanic plug) Bass Rock – and I wondered why it had taken me song long to revisit the panoramic spot.

Arthur’s Seat on the other hand was a place I was much more familiar with – having lived near the remarkable landmark for around 15 years, I’ve climbed it on several occasions.

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With Berwick Law still fresh in my mind I was curious to compare the two and I wondered if I would prefer the coastal panoramas of East Lothian or the urban landscape of the capital.

Standing around 60-metres taller than Berwick Law, ‘the sleeping lion’ is a slightly tougher climb – especially when you get to the last part. But you will be well rewarded as you make your journey, with incredible views to enjoy from start to finish.

There were a few noticeable differences early on. As one would expect, due to the beauty spot’s proximity with the city, Arthur’s Seat is significantly busier and an urban soundtrack from the streets below can still be heard as you traverse up the hill. The other was the intense wind at the top.

But stunning views can be seen much quicker on Arthur’s Seat and I found myself turning back to gaze at the scenery more often than I did at Berwick Law. Due to its size, there is also an abundance of paths to choose which is great if you fancy moving off the main route and exploring the historical site.

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In what felt like gale force winds at the top, around 40 or so people were taking a well needed rest, myself included, to take in the 360-degree views. There’s an old triangulation pillar and compass at the top, where you will see a lot of selfies being taken, and the rugged rocky surroundings overlooking Edinburgh will always be a remarkable sight no matter how many times you climb it.

I found being at the top of Berick Law slightly more enjoyable, primarily due to the lack of wind, but also because its flatter surface, seating and whale bone monument make the summit more welcoming for a more extended rest.

That being said, it’s not all about relaxing at the summit – having Arthur’s Seat in the heart of the capital is a privilege and being able to walk up an extinct volcano in a capital city never gets old.

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