Free transport of delight around simply grand duchy

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Prior knowledge of world's sole sovereign grand duchy was musical and minimal.

Radio Luxembourg ... Europe's biggest commercial station when this '70s schoolboy frequently tuned in to "Fab 208" frequency pirate DJs and discs.

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Eurovision Luxembourg ... five-time winner, four-time host of international song contest, this year revisited after three-decade absence.

"In Luxembourg" ... preceded by memorable Morrissey couplet "Writing frightening verse to a buck-toothed girl" in indie darlings The Smiths' '80s hit Ask.

Luxembourg belies its Dorset size to offer great opportunities for Brit tourists (photo LCTO)Luxembourg belies its Dorset size to offer great opportunities for Brit tourists (photo LCTO)
Luxembourg belies its Dorset size to offer great opportunities for Brit tourists (photo LCTO)

But there's more - way more - to "Gibraltar of the North" than mere musical musings, my blank canvas coloured by enjoyable experiences aplenty.

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No bigger than Dorset, small is beautiful thanks to micronation's vast array of diverse culture and character including Disneyesque castles and sought-after fortresses.

And, transport of delight, FREE train, tram and bus public travel network connections everywhere for all.

UNESCO World Heritage capital, among Europe's greenest, provides cosmopolitan city R&R relaxation amid Grund medieval old town classical charm, aesthetically combining with equally impressive contemporary cultivated architecture.

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Bright lights of nation's free transport network trams await (photo SIP Jean-Christophe Verhaegen)Bright lights of nation's free transport network trams await (photo SIP Jean-Christophe Verhaegen)
Bright lights of nation's free transport network trams await (photo SIP Jean-Christophe Verhaegen)

Or cross country’s five fascinating regions, ideally by back to nature bike or hike trails traversing lush landscapes.

Annual events - summer open-air concerts, autumn wine festivals, winter festive fairs, spring art exhibitions - ensure enriching entertainment for everyone across all seasons.

Butchering classic quote, likely sending celebrated author journalist Ernest Hemingway spinning in his Idaho grave, "You make your own Lux".

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There's bags of family-friendly fun to be had even if, as this hapless globetrotter, your case - containing all clothes, medications, toiletries, chargers and adaptors - remains back in Blighty!

LuxembourgCard opens many doors throughout Grund old town historic heartland (photo Sabino Parente)LuxembourgCard opens many doors throughout Grund old town historic heartland (photo Sabino Parente)
LuxembourgCard opens many doors throughout Grund old town historic heartland (photo Sabino Parente)

But, glass ever half full - here of Wolff Brewing Co apt ale Wanderlust Session - €12.99 second hand shirt will forever remind me of most memorable of shoestring adventures.

No travel bucket list is complete without exploring this landlocked destination, bordered by Belgium, France and Germany.

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And, with new sub two-hour thrice-weekly Manchester connections complementing London's regular routes, visiting EU founder member need not now be flight of fancy for any Brit, keen to discover why "We want to remain what we are" national motto is understandable. Perfectly!

Where to stay

Wine, not least more than 40 Rieslings, toasts fine dining at Bistro Brasserie Koeppchen (photo BBK)Wine, not least more than 40 Rieslings, toasts fine dining at Bistro Brasserie Koeppchen (photo BBK)
Wine, not least more than 40 Rieslings, toasts fine dining at Bistro Brasserie Koeppchen (photo BBK)

Within five miles of airport arrival, easily accessed by bus and tram, Mama Shelter (https://mamashelter.com/luxembourg/) is mother of all boutique accommodation, quirky three-star hotel boasting quality 145 studio designed rooms, some spacious enough for families, featuring free Wi-Fi as well as visitor-friendly round-the-clock front desk and graffiti-rich restaurant bar terrace offering, fittingly during not so far away Paris Olympics, breakfast of champions. Channelling The Rolling Stones '69 classic album opener, Gimme Shelter!

Where to visit

Meandering Moselle region https://www.visitluxembourg.com/destinations/regions/moselle embodies fine wine and "We have never cared about borders" Euro spirit - typified by lofty Shengen, whose historic '85 agreement embraced diversity by abolishing EU frontier checks - picturesque sun-splashed valley slopes unified in producing and processing late harvest Elbling, Grauburgunder, Pinots, Riesling, Rivaner and characteristic Auxerrois grapes, hillside fruit also alchemised into liqueurs and juices alongside vibrant vintage viniculture. Cheers also to nearby nature reserves protecting valued species.

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Water way to maximise Moselle exploration, Navitours Eventschiff (https://navitours.lu/en/croisiere/panoramic-promenade) hour-long voyage of discovery aboard panorama boat skirting such picture postcard waterside settlements as "Pearl" Remich, Bech-Kleinmacher and Schwebsingen, passing wealth of scenic sights including area's oldest castles and duchy's only yachting marina, contented passengers buoyed by slice of cake and cup of coffee or, more bracing yet, glass of Qualitätswein, savouring sun deck and enclosed salon's cruise control comfort.

Far from under the radar underground Bock Casemates 17th century subterranean labyrinthine galleries are forefront among heritage highlights including seven-strong MuseumSmile, Museum Dräi Eechelen, Grand-Ducal Palace, Philharmonic Concert Hall, Cathedral Notre-Dame, Melusina Statue, Pont Grande Duchesse Charlotte "Red Bridge" and recently-opened Europa Experience - must-have LuxembourgCard proving just the ticket for complimentary or discounted admission to 80-plus places of historical interest - while town square Place d’Armes or Gëlle Fra free shows number among noteworthy musical distractions.

Take steps toward holiday fitness along assorted walks, covering all degrees of difficulty, including conveniently circular Wenzel, Vauban and Mansfeld treks as well as Shoah Memorial and Auto-pédestre trails while park life strolls lead to Pfaffenthal funicular, effortlessly connecting upper and lower levels.

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Sail away in style with Moselle sight-seeing voyage of discovery (photo Navitours Eventschiff)Sail away in style with Moselle sight-seeing voyage of discovery (photo Navitours Eventschiff)
Sail away in style with Moselle sight-seeing voyage of discovery (photo Navitours Eventschiff)

No better way to grab sweet and savoury treats on the hoof than Uncover Tastes of Luxembourg (https://sightseeing.lu/trip/food-tour-uncover-the-tastes-of-luxembourg/), leisurely stroll spanning three hours and appealingly appetising variety of venues, some secreted down cobbled back streets, gastronomic guide par excellence Marilena Nikoloudia leading tastebud-tantalising tour, inclusive culinary adventure awakening senses to mouth-watering foreign fusions - typical Rieslingspaschtéit wine jelly meat pie, quiche Lorraine, bacon creamy comfort food Kniddelen and refined ham accompanied by quality crémant as well as hot chocolate and cool confectionery - flavoursome fare for foodies among us, enriching our plate then palate. Gudden Appetit!

Where to dine

"Dedicated to local quality products," high cuisine doesn't come much more elevated than Bistro Brasserie Koeppchen (https://www.koeppchen.lu/) authentic terroir dishes, including signature lava rock char-grilled meats to tempt most discerning of carnivores, after sharing entrées from Alsatian tarte flambee to warm goat cheese salad, afore chocolate moelleux customary birthday cake, washed down by celebrated cellar's 40-plus Rieslings. Company also gets no better than Luxembourg for Tourism International Press PR Brigitte Goergen. Venturing higher up same hill reveals Wormer Koeppchen (https://www.visitluxembourg.com/place/wormer-koeppchen) vantage point whose chapel, approaching next year's centenary, towers over Wormeldange as lasting legacy to Donatus, patron saint of 70-degree steep vineyards and weather, defending destructive storms and fires.

Guests are recommended to "ring" beforehand Brasserie du Cercle (https://www.brasserie-du-cercle.lu/?lang=en&page=carte) to ensure reservation at two-floor eatery, upstairs providing panoramic views of Place d’Armes square, terrace affording al fresco dining, shaded by day, heated by night, recipe for success menu featuring wide range of regional specialities and Italian dishes, followed by artisanal ice cream, as tasty as it is traditional.

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Chiche! at Mudam (https://www.mudam.com/cafe), within comprehensively eclectic contemporary art museum, is just as creative, combining seamlessly authentic homemade Lebanese food with social cohesion, latest of four city sites celebrating core belief of offering welcome employment to migrants and refugees, boosting community inclusion and empowerment. More power to them, offering food for thought. And thought for food.

Similarly multi-cultural cuisine well worth sampling includes Italian Bella Ciao, Mediterranean Haertz, Lebanese Bazaar and longest serving café Ënnert den Steiler Oldest as well as vegetarian specialists Beet and Mesa Verde. We beer lovers can raise glass or three at Rock Solid Um Picket, ShamRock Pub, Totenhopfen Brauhaus, Big Beer Company Restaurant, Bar & Brauerei and, steeped and seeped in ale since 1871, Mousel Brasserie de Luxembourg.

Way to go (fact box)

Key contacts include https://www.luxair.lu/en airline information, https://www.visitluxembourg.com/ tourism support and https://www.visitluxembourg.com/plan-your-stay/luxembourgcard LuxembourgCard purchase.

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